Week 10: Atlantic Ocean to the Andes

Dear Friends, Partyamo People and Fellow Travellers,

These are the totals from the Atlantic Ocean to the Andes (Mendoza):

- Distance Travelled 1940 km
- Distance cycled 1850 km
- Days cycled 19
- Hours cycled 97
- Avg Speed 19 km/h
- Avg km/day 97

- Week 8. After the party nights with Leila, Valeria and Carolina they invited me to a real family asado Argentino on Sunday afternoon. All the family is there, it's a weekly routine, but it has a special feel like christmas day, it goes on all afternoon till dinner time eating the left overs of the bbq. At this asado I'm introduced to another part of the cow that you can eat, the glands under the cow's tongue called "mollejas", sweet bread in english. They are as big as a chicken breast with a yellowish cream colour. The texture is like liver, taste is a bit like liver too. Cooked on the bbq you eat them with a generous squeeze of lemon (geeza lemon squeeza!!!).

- Week 9. On Monday 27 April I take All Black to a bike shop, during the last week I started to feel strange cracks and noises on the pedals. It turns out to be the bottom bracket (the piece that connects the crank set & pedals) which is made of 4 differnt pices and is loose. I change it for a single bottom bracket piece which shouldn't cause anymore problems. I also put an extra support for the front frame for the begs, it was moving too much. The rear tyre is starting to worn out, with me and the bags the weight at the rear is 95 kg, 10 kg at the front. Another 1000 km and I'll switch tyres from back to front and use them till they burst. However, I buy an extra for when it will happen.

I spend the following days relaxing in hostel Punto Clave enjoying Jorge's & Rudy's company and asado, the best asado with homemade chimichurri's sauce, made of erbs, chilly, garlic, lemo, vinegar and oil. On my last day in Rosario Leila, Valeria and Carolina take me for a tour of Rosario visiting the shopping streets, the impressive Monumento a la Bandera Argentina, rio Parana' and the Monumento a Ernesto Che Guevara, a bronze statue made from the donation of more than 14000 bronze keys in 2008.

Day26: 30 April, Rosario to Cañada de Gamez.
distance 85.10 km, cycling time 4h 30min, brutto time 11.30-17.30, avg speed 18.95 km/h, max speed 37.47 km/h, climb 220 m, total distance 982.85 km, avg heart rate 120, max hr 151, temp 32 C

Here we go again, I say good bye to all and leave Rosario for the provence of Cordoba. Conditions are good, full sunshine, a light side wind and 40km of motorway. The motorway finishes, the road is diverted to the old Ruta 9, a narrow state road with heavy lorry traffic. The problem is when 2 lorries a crossing at the same time which leaves no space for me, lorries will not slow down to 20km/h so I have to throw my self on the side into the grass, dirt etc. Very dangerous situation! I stop in Cañada de Gomez, again a small town of farmers. In the hotel I'm staying there is a dog called "Bono" like the singer of U2. He's not chasing me but following me everywhere. I go to the local small supermarket and Bono is following me not only to the supermarket also right into the shop it self. The owner of the shop says to keep the dog out, I say that the dog is from the hotel, I try to push Bono out with no success. The owner puts up with Bono and lets me shop. Back to the hotel with Bono I meet Pepe, a dj from a local radio. He was told by friends that I was staying in the hotel, he asks me if I want to join him during his show on the 2nd of May in the morning for an on air interview. As I was planning to stay for the 1st of May (everything will be closed), so I agree.

Day27: 1st of May

Day28: 02 May, Cañada de Gamez to Marcos Juarez
distance 74.75 km, cycling time 4h 07min, brutto time 11.15-16.05, avg speed 18.15 km/h, max speed 28.82 km/h, climb 226 m, total distance 1057.10 km, avg heart rate 124, max hr 151, temp 28 C.

Radio FM 97.5 El Fresno, 2nd radio interview, this time I get a chance to interact with listeners by answering their questions, one listener even invites me for a asado, I say thank you but I'm leaving. A few photos of dj Pepe with All Black and off I go. Ruta 9 is all the same, flat with same country side views, side winds, dangerous lorries passing me all the time and the road is all straight with no bends, not even a tiny bend, just all straight on. I get to Marcos Juarez, now I'm in the Cordoba province.

Day29: 03 May, Marcos Juarez to Bell Ville
distance 71.23 km, cycling time 4h 19min, brutto time 10.30-16.10, avg speed 16.48 km/h, max speed 28.82 km/h, climb 199 m, total distance 1128.33 km, avg heart rate 115, max hr 151, temp 28 C.

I'm sick of Ruta 9, too straight and too dangerous, full sunshine with strong front wind today. Bell Ville another sleepy farmers town.

- Week 10. Day30, 04 May, I leave the hotel at 10am with side gale force winds. It's so strong that lifts dirt & dust from the fields, reducing visibility, the wind is so strong that I can't even go straight on Ruta 9, a suicidal situation! I surrender and go back to Bell Ville to shitty Hotel Italia.

Day31: 05 May, Bell Ville to Villa Maria
distance 75.71 km, cycling time 4h 49min, brutto time 10.30-16.00, avg speed 15.68 km/h, max speed 26.90 km/h, climb 430 m, total distance 1204.04 km, avg heart rate 113, max hr 148, temp 28 C.

Finally the last 30 km to Villa Maria have a motorway, there is a sign for no bicycles allowed, I ignore the sign and carry on. Not going on Ruta 9 anymore, the motorway is much safer.

Day32: 06 May, Villa Maria to Rio Quarto
distance 139.76 km, cycling time 7h 33min, brutto time 10.00-18.30, avg speed 18.50 km/h, max speed 31.71 km/h, climb 346 m, total distance 1343.8 km, avg heart rate 115, max hr 141, temp 26 C.

I turn south west on Ruta 158, a good new road with plenty of space so I don't have to worry about what is coming behind me. The scenery is the same with endless fields and a very straight flat road. Half way through to Rio Quarto a local cyclist joins me for 20 km, he explains to me that the surrounding fields are for growing peanuts (all harvest at this time of year) processed localy for oil or exported. I think "shame you don't eat peanut butter in Argentina!". I get to Rio Quarto quite drained after 140km. Finally something bigger than a town, it's a small city with a nice centre.

Day 33: I rest.

Day34: 08 May, Rio Quarto to Villa Mercedez
distance 133.53 km, cycling time 6h 28min, brutto time 09.30-17.00, avg speed 20.62 km/h, max speed 40.35 km/h, climb 330 m, total distance 1477.33 km, avg heart rate 123, max hr 159, temp 30 C.

It's another long day, with very good conditions, no wind at all, I pick up very good speeds of 25-30km/h, at time I can use the 3rd chain ring with the highest gear crusing at 38km/h for 45 minutes, with a bike that weighs 50kg. Thanks to the high speeds I get to Villa Mercedez at 17.00.

Day 35: Rest

Day 36: No sleep, need to rest.

Day37: 11 May, Villa Mercedez to San Luis
distance 99.90 km, cycling time 4h 50min, brutto time 09.30-15.30, avg speed 20.64 km/h, max speed51.40 km/h, climb 541 m, total distance 1577.23 km, avg heart rate 124, max hr 151, temp 15 C.


Autum has began, at 9am the temperature is a low 10 C, sky is overcast with thick grey clouds and a light fog hangs in the countryside. I'm wearing my running jacket for the first time. After 40km I have to stop to change my shorts for long cycling pants. All the way is a slight up hill road. 35km to San Luis at 1100m a slight down hill starts, 3rd chain ring I blast it out cycling at 42km/h most of the remaining distance. Biking around San Luis centre looking for a hotel, I'm stopped by a man and his son. Mario Greco, a 50 year old interest in MTBs, we chat about my bike and travelling, I ask him if he knows a good cheap hotel. He tells me that he's got apartments that he rents to tourists next to his villa. He offers me to stay there free of charge. I put All Black on his Dodge pickup truck and off we go. The apartment is very nice and just for me. Mario Greco, a very friendly and generous man.

Day38: 12 May, San Luis to La Paz
distance 125 km, cycling time 5h 40min, brutto time 09.30-17.30, total distance 1712.23 km. Computer not working good today, I wonder why?

Cold and grey with 70km of slight climb. La Paz is a very poor town, the poorest I've seen up to date. Most of the shops do not have signs, they are mainly a room of the owner's house.

Day39: Rest

Day37: 14 May, La Paz to Mendoza (finally the Andes)
distance 148 km, cycling time 7h 48min, brutto time 09.15-18.20, avg speed 18.96 km/h, max speed 30.26 km/h, climb 413 m, total distance 1850.93 km, avg heart rate 126, max hr 153, temp 12 C.

Very cold in the morning with a low 6 C, all flat straight road with lots of vineyards. I'm going to stop in Mendoza for a while, I need to buy some gear and especially fix a few more things on All Black. This is the last proper city to buy stuff before the wildness of the north of Argentina and Bolivia. Chatting on facebook I discover Jenn (friend from Bs As, met again in Montevideo) is in town and Miriam (my best friend from Bs As) is coming in a few days. I also meet in the hostel Matt (met in Bs As) with friend Megan. Looking forward for a good week in Mendoza.

As always take it easy geezers lemon squeezers.


with love



jimbo on the road

Week 7: From Uruguay Back to Argentina

Dear Friends, Partyamo People and Fellow Travellers,

I've stopped in Colonia del Sacramento for 4 days, to get rid of the pain of my old running injury in my left hand side leg. All clear now, ready for some serious cycling.

Day 12: Thursday 16 April, Colonia to Carmelo
km 81.4, time on bike 5h 35min, brutto time 10.00 - 17.00, avg speed 14.4 km/h, max speed 42.7, total climb 602m, heart rate 121, max HR 161, temp. 30 C.

Finally out of Colonia, but I'm facing a very strong head wind and lots of climbs. There is a climb every km and when I get to the top I'm slowed down by the head wind, at times as slow as 10 km/h (I can run faster than that!). Thanks to the wind, even down hill I'm slow, pedaling I pick up an avg speed of 25 km/h, down hill! A full sunny day, I get to Carmelo exhausted. It's a small town of farmers, there is one main square, near by I check in a small shitty, expensive, for a 2 star hotel "El Centro". I just manage to shower, drink 1L of yoghurt, eat 2 meat empanadas and die on the bed watching tv.

Day 13: Friday 17 April, Carmelo to Dolores
km 79.12, time on bike 5h 20min, brutto time 10.00 - 17.30, avg speed 14.8 km/h, max speed 35.5, total climb 445m, heart rate 118, max HR 153, temp. 32 C.

As the hotel is shite, of course the breakfast is shite as well. I set of at 10am and I'm still fighting a strong front wind and lots of climbs, one every km. It's hot today with 35 C, at times I have to stop in the shade just to get out of the sun. I'm able to bike for 2 1/2 hours, covering 45 km. After lunch my body starts to shut down a bit, feeling uncomfortable on the bike with pins & needles in my arms due to the posture. I have to get off the bike every 10 km for 5-10 min to get the blood circulation going again.The heat and climbs are testing my strenght today. At 4.30pm I get to Dolores, I stop at a gas station to shade and drink a cold Coke. I'm exhausted again, I still have 35 km to get to Mercedes, in order to cross the border with Argentina the following day. It's 5pm, Ive got 2 hours of sun light. Come on!!! Who's the geeza lemon squeeza??? Lets go!!! I get out of Dolores, 1st climb shit, 2nd climb shit, 3rd climb f*** it! I turn around and go back to Dolores, ain't a geeza today!
The town is small but nice, I'm welcomed by people asking where I'm from and where I'm going with the bike. I get to the main square and stopped by a local cyclist. Interested in my story, he tells me that he works for a local radio and asks me if I'm willing to give an interview. I accept of course and follow him to the local radio which is just round the corner. Radio San Salvador AM1580, I get in and I'm welcomed by the director who says to me "Ciao Italiano, Porco ***!!!" I say "It's a strong word to use" and he says " Cazzo me ne frega, me l'ha insegnato un amico di Bergamo, Porco ***!!!" He's very friendly and he invites me to the dj studio, which is "on air". The dj is briefed, music stops, the dj introduces me and welcomes me on air, the interview starts. The dj is very interested in my story, he spends 20 minutes asking all kinds of questions why? when? and how? Can't belive it! I get to a small town in Uruguay, still sweating from cycling and I'm in a radio station giving an interview in spanish "on air". A few photos and I ask where I can find a good, cheap hotel in town, they direct me to Cri Hotel, round the corner. A very sweet positive lady invites me in and says "you are the Italian cycling South America, I've listened to you on the radio". I sit at a desk with her to check in, between us the cat of the hotel sits on the desk looking at me. Through out the whole process the cat stays there looking at me all proud "this is my house". So sweet & funny. When I gave the interview I was still sweating from cycling and ther was a strong aircon on. Now I'm not feeling good, I got a sore throat, sleep only 2 hours and the next day I have a fever. The price of fame!

Day 14: Saturday 18 April. Dolores in Dolores
Have a fever. Laying in bed all day.

Day 15: Sunday 19 April, Dolores to Mercedes
km 42.3, time on bike 2h 06min, brutto time 11.00 - 13.06, avg speed 20.07 km/h, max speed 42.7, total climb 277m, heart rate 120, max HR 149, temp. 28 C.

Not feeling great today. However, I decide to get moving, I need to get to Merceds to cross the border with Argentina on Monday. Nice and easy, to Mercedes is only 35 km and is flat with few down hills. I get to the town centre at 13.00, check in a very cheap hotel for 200 pesos Ur (7 euros). I rest all afternoon. Late afternoon I go out to have a look around. Mercedes is a small town on Rio Negro. There is a rambla next to the river where the locals hang out drinking mate on the side walks or driving slowly up & down the rambla, always drinking mate. Uruguayos go crazy for mate, they all walk around with a termos under the arm and mate in one hand. They even ride bikes with one hand to drink mate.

Day 16: Monday 20 April, Mercedes to Qualiquaychu (ARG)
km 61.25, time on bike 3h 02min, brutto time 09.30 - 19.00, avg speed 20.01 km/h, max speed 45.6, total climb 187m, heart rate 120, max HR 153, temp. 28 C.

It's my last day in Uruguay! There is an issue at the border near Fray Bentos: due to the a paper industry plant, the road from the argentinian side is blocked by protesters (they have been there for the last 3 years!), they will not let cars through unless they work in the area, but they let bicycles through. So there is little traffic to the border, where there is a long bridge to cross Rio Uruguay into Argentina. At the bringe a border guard tells me I can't cross the bridge with my bike. He tells me I have to wait for a pick up or jeep to give me a lift. Well it's only 11am, how lonk will it take? After an hour I'm drinking mate with the border guard. Only at 5pm, 6 hours after, a pick up truck shows up. Luckly he will take me, I have less than 2 hour of sunshine to get to Gualeguachu.After crossing the bridge, I begin my ride in Argentina. It's all flat to Gualeguaychu, I get there at 7pm as sun sets. It's dark now, I check in the first hotel I see, a 3 star hotel for 95 peso Ar (20 euro).

Day 17: Tuesday 21 April, Gualeguaychu to Gualeguay
km 89.4, time on bike 4h 30min, brutto time 11.00 - 16.45, avg speed 20.62 km/h, max speed 38.7, total climb 298m, heart rate 122, max HR 161, temp. 26 C.

Wow!!! All flat, I pick up a good avg speed 25-28 km/h. There is little traffic on this country road, only farm land. At each farm I'm barked or chased by dogs. At one point 2 dogs run through their property, one of them crosses the road to chase me. He even puts him self in front to try to stop me. I move to the middle of the road to avoid him and he still chases me. At the same time there is a double lorry coming the opposite direction, I move back to the side of the road, but the stupid dog crosses the road to go back. He is hit at full speed by the lorry. I hear the "bang", I turn around and see chunks of dog spread all over the place. Stupid dog! I feel sorry for the other dog on the side that just lost his friend or brother.

Day 18: Wednesday 22 April, Gualeguay to Victoria
km 111.46, time on bike 6h 03min, brutto time 10.00 - 18.30, avg speed 18.41 km/h, max speed 46.64, total climb 454m, heart rate 112, max HR 155, temp. 30 C.

Again only countryside, farms and f***ing dogs chasing me down the road. I'm told that they go crazy when they see wheels of bikes turning. What ever! Today is hot, but there is no shade for 70 km, only then I find a gas station where I stop for shade and a cold Pepsi. The next 40 km is a reminder of Uruguay with lots of climbs. I check in a cheap hotel, I eat pizza watching tv and die on the bed.

Day 19: Thursday 23 April, Victoria to Rosario
I leave the hotel, ride for 2 km to the bridge to cross Rio Parana' and I'm stopped by police. They will not let me cross the 60 km of bridges to Rosario. After seeing my passport, I ask "what can I do to get to Rosario?". They say "Don't worry we will stop a pick up or jeep to take you to Rosario." Wow, excellent service. They like Italians and if you speak the lingo they respect you. I get a ride from a pick up, a very friendly guy who lived in Italy and Spain, so we have lots to talk about during the ride. He drops me in the city centre, he gives me his number and he invites me to a Saturday asado with his friends. Argentinians can be so friendly! I check in hostel Punto Clave, a very nice place, looks like at home, all tidy & clean, run by Jorge & Rudy, very friendly, genuinly interested in their guests and will do anything to help you. Can' belive it!!! I log in Facebook, I see a frienship`request. Leila!!! We used to work together in f***ing Sansicario, she's from Rosario, but she works in Gran Canaria now. She contacts me via chat and she tells me that she's back in Rosario with her cousin Valeria, she worked in Sansicario as well. Can't belive it!!! we meet up and the next 2 nights out we party till dawn.


Take it easy geezers lemon squeezers


Always with love



jimbo

Week 5: Happiness Through Freedom

Dear Friends, Partyamo People and Fellow Travellers,

- La Paloma: As I said, I leave the bike at the hostel in Montevideo and set of with Kathy to La Paloma. It's a 3 hour bus ride to get to La Paloma. A beautiful, well built sea resort. Low rise buildings, nice villas, a small village that blends with the beauty of the landscape.
We check in the Beach Hostel, a brand new hostel, just of the beach, run by Ricardo, a 60+ year old charming guy, who will go that extra mile to please his guests. We meet up with the girls and head to the local market to buy dinner. We buy prawns, calamari, some kind of white chunky fish for 200 pesos (7 euros). All on a tray and on the BBQ. Sea breeze, fish, potatos, salad and medio y medio. Pure pleasure.

The following morning after breakfast, we spend a few hours on the beach. Got to lunch time Ricardo kindly takes us with his pick up to the market. We have a seafood pasta and salad made by Kathy. The best salad ever!!! A traditional salad plus apples and peaches, with a apple & balsamic vinagar.I'm going to remember that salad forever!!! In the afternoon Ricardo, ever so kind, takes us with is pick up to the Laguna de Rocha, a "Reserva de la Biosfera", for birdwatching, fish, etc. Late afternonn, Ricardo decides to take us to the near by resort of La Pedrera. On the way out of the laguna, we are driving to close to the water, till we see a swamp area. Ricardo accelerates to pass the swamp, but we are to slow, we loose grip, wheels spin and we are stuck in the swamp. We find a few wood panels, place them under the wheels for grip, Ricardo backs out and we are free. Yeah!!! Ricardo goes around the swamp to end up in the swamp near by. Again we are too slow, wheels spin and we are stuck again. This time we are really stuck in deep mud (or shit?). It takes 2 fisherman, a 4WD pick up, wood panels, a cord and 2 hour of attempts to get out of the swamp. We are covered in mud, stink of shit, but we are happy. A last meal with Kathy and we head back to Montevideo. At the bus station I say good bye to Kathy with 2 easter eggs, one for her, one for Miriam back in Bs As. Feeling sad to say good bye to her It ahs been nice, but tomorrow back on the bike.

- Brazil: I've done some research on internet to see if any cyclotourist had any information about Brazil. On www.crazyguyonthebike.com,

a blog for extreme cyclotourists, there are only 2 out of the 100 cyclist that travelled South America, that have been in Brazil and only for a short distance.I've talked to uruguayos and a few brazilians who strongly advised me not to cycle through brazil. I even don't feel at ease not speacking the lingo. One thing I'm enjoying about this trip is being able to communicate and understand the locals. I've decided not to go through Brazil. I want to get on the main cyclotourism stream among the spine of the Andes. So I will enter Argentina via central Uruguay. I'll cycle Uruguay through the little towns on the border with Argentina. So back to Colonia, up to Carmelo and Mercedes.

- Day 3: Friday 10 April, Montevideo to San Jose de Mayo.
km 99.81, time h06:17min, avg speed 15.87km/h, max speed 31.71km/h, total climb 545m, cardio frequency 134, max cf 173, temp 29c.

A lot of wind today, first 40km blows from the left hand side up to Canellones, as the road turns west it becomes a strong head wind that slows me down from 23km/h to 13km/h. Ouch!!! Shit my left leg, I feel the pain of a 10 year old injury, the tendon of my bicep femoris, I feel it pulling, I have to cycle easy now. A very slow ride at 15km/h with a costant pain in my left leg. I get to San Jose de May dying for a shower, food and a bed. There is only a 3 star hotel. Tonight I'll have to treat my self with a bit of luxury, a room for 650 pesos (21 euros, normally I spend 10 euros for a dorm in a hostel), nice & clean, cable tv and I don't have to jump from the window to go to reception. I was lucky to get the room, the hotel is fully booked for the "Vuelta de Uruguay" which arrives tomorrow.

- Day 4: Saturday 11 April, San Jose de Mayo to Nueva Helvecia.
km 64.89, time h04:26min, avg speed 14.63km/h, max speed 38.43, total climb 362m, cardio frequency 119, max cf 153, temp 31c.

I leave San Jose as its preparing for the "Vuelta de Uruguay", I have the honour to cross the finish line with All Black in the opposite direction of the race. A lot of people are on the side of the road waiting for the cyclists, they give their thumbs up for me shouting "you are going the wrong way, the race is in the opposite direction". 30km out of San Jose I bump into the race, I stop on the side to let them through and take pictures. Not Many cyclist, less than 100. It's a small country after all. Today the wind is even stronger, at times it slows me down to 10km/h. My left leg still hurts, good that I'm only doing 65km today. On arrival I down a 1L carton of citrus juice. Stopping again at Hotel de Pedrera, this time they have a menu as there are plenty of guests.

Day 5: Nueva Helvecia to Colonia del Sacramento.
km68.65, h04:01min, avg speed 17.09km/h, max speed 37.47, total climb 459m, cardio frequency 114, max cf 147, temp 37c, total km 433.02

Very hot today, riding good and the leg is feeling better. I will stop in Colonia to rest the leg for 2 days, just to be safe. On arrival I down another 1L carton of citrus juice.

- Happiness Through Freedom: At El Viajero Hostel in Colonia I meet a real charecter, Richard, 62 year old Canadian, never left North America before, so excited to be in Uruguay. He quit is job to travel, as ex wife took the house and belongings. Like my self, he got a certificate to teach english to foreigners. At 62 he left all behind to start again, teaching english and travelling the world. He is now a very happy man. It's good to see people changing life to seek adventure, even at a late stage in life.

You enter the backpacker's travel stream and you realize that there are many people of all ages, each for their own reason, decide to take a break or change completly life style all for the same reason: live, breath, experience different cultures, countries, meet and exchange experiences with fellow travellers and local people. It's a cheap , simple way of travelling which fulfils your soul with the richness of the world and its people. It's all about meeting the world, living the unknown, the endless need for happiness through freedom. Being away from everyday life, away from everything that is familiar and everything that is supposed to be normal. For me all this feeling of adventure and freedom is enhenced through the hardship of cycling and doing it all on your own. I feel joy, satisfaction and personal pride. I feel happy, I feel good...I feel high. It's a very adictive and powerful drug. The most adictive and powerful drug of all.

After this final thought, I think this is enough for this week.


Thake it easy geezers lemon squeezers.



With love



jimbo

Week 4: The journey begins

Dear Friends, Partyamo People and fellow Travelers,

Finally out of Hostel Estoril. Of course after nearly 4 weeks of glorious sunshine, the day I leave it f****** chucks down with rain. A 10 minute cycling from the hostel to the docks, to catch the ferry to Uruguay and I'm compleatly soaking wet. This will be the test to see if my cycling travel bags are really water proof, as they said when I purchesed them.

The journey on the ferry wasn't pleasant at all, it was impossible to stay on deck to enjoy the views, too much rain and wind. After 3 hours crossing the Rio de la Plata, ferry "Isabel" docked in Colonia del Sacramento, in full sunshine. Colonia is a nice little town, a well established tourist resort since its historical town centre has been declered "Patrimonio de la Humanedad" by UNESCO. I checked in the El Viajero, a pretty, clean hostel with patio and sunroof terrace.

Checking the travel bags, I discover that they are not totally water proof. Some water has filtered through, staining my towel and winter coat for the Andes. Temporary solution: black linen plactic bags when it rains, it will look like a black bike with 5 big trash bags, a good disincentive for theft. Weather forcast for the next few days says that there will be tunder storms, with sunshine back on Sunday. I decide to wait till Sunday. In the mean time, friends from Bs As hostel facebbok me saying that they will be in Montevideo on Sunday. Shit! Due to the rain I'll be in Montevideo only on Monday. What a shame, bad timing.

- Day 1: Sunday 5 April, Colonia to Nueva Helvecia.
Km 65.51, Time H04:02min, Avg Speed 16.07, Max Speed 35.5, Total Climb 493m, Cardio Frequency 136, Max CF 171, Max Temp 34c.

Freedom!!! The journey begins. I leave Colonia at 10.30am, it took a lot of time to upload the bike. I was so excited that I left Colonia with no food or sunscrean protection. I will later regret doing so. Just out of Colonia, I'm chased by 4 dogs that scare the shit out of me, as I was going up hill and slow. The scenery is amazing. The countryside is lashed in green, quite spetacular to see cows shading from the sun under palm trees. The road is a continuous slight up & down, like waves in the ocean, no wind but is hot with 34c. After 2 1/2 hours, I'm feeling very hungry, but got no food and the sun is burning my skin. I need food and shade ASAP. Only after a 50km in 3 hours, I find a farmer that sells cheese. Lots of cheese and no bread. I'm so hungry that I'm ready to eat cheese with no bread! The farmer fells sorry for me, makes a phone call, 5 minutes later I have bread! It fills the stomach too late. I'm feeling powerless and sunburnt, I start to drink a lot of water which makes things even worse.

I manage another 15km, I decide to stop in Nueva Helvecia (New Switzerland), very posh town with nice villas & cars, a place where you can smell money. Luckily, there is a cheap, shitty looking hotel, El Hotel Pedrera, since 1910, never refurbished. The room is nice, but the bathroom gives you the creeps: since 1910, never refurbished. Water stains all over, an electric water boiler which makes you wonder if is safe to shower. And a bucket!!! I wonder what that is for??? I try to flush the toilet, thus discovering the use of the bucket! I try to get out of the romm, but the f****** door doesn't open. I'm looked inside! Luckily (if I can say so), I'm on the ground floor, so I jump from the f****** window to go to reception. Got the door sorted, I ask if they serve dinner. They say "yes". I ask "do you have a menu?". "We have chicken" was the answer. "Anything else?" I ask. "with potatos" was the answer. I say "I guess I'll have the chicken then". It was a very good chicken & chips.

- Day 2: Nueva Helvecia to Montevideo.
Km 134.16, Time H6:50min, Avg Speed 19.59, Max Speed 44.2, Total climb 594m, Cardio Frequency 136, Max CF 179, Max Temp 31c.

I'm sunburnt, I have to use a long sleeve shirt and long cycling pants to cover the sunburnt skin. Face will have to suffer. It doesn't feel so hot today, there is a nice breeze. Riding good today with an avg 25km speed at the begining. Fine till 100km, after that my body starts to shut down, feeling dehydrated I start to drink too much water, which slows me down. On the outskirts of Montevideo I physically need to stop, but I'm in the middle of a shanty town, not good to stop here. With the last strenghts in my body I manage to get to the city centre where the hostal is. 1 Km from the hostal I started to walk. I couldn't stay on the bike anymore, my butt hurted so much and I had costant pins & needles in my arms, hands and left leg. Not used to cycle for 7 hours. My sugar levels were low, needed to eat ASAP. I opened the door of the hostel and heard "Its James!!! Its James!!!". The girls are still in town, Kathy, Jenn and Marina. Incredible, Jenn and Marina were just leaving for the sea resort in La Paloma. Must be destiny. Kathy was staying for another night and she had sugar, very good Cerealitas biscuits (like Digestive's). She saved me from fainting. After biscuits and a shower, I was ready for wine with Kathy. While drinking the local "Medio y Medio" (1/2 wine, 1/2 spumante), she asked me if I wanted to join her and the girls in the sea resort of La Paloma, for 2 days of beach life. Yeah!!! 2 days beach life with the girls, what better way to relax after 2 days cycling. I'll leave the bike in the hostel for 2 days. La Paloma here we come!!!

That is enough for now Geezers Lemon Squeezers.


With Love



Jimbo on the Road

Week 3: the final day in Estoril

Dear Friends,

after accepting the fact that I had to spend one more week in Bs As for the bike pc, I thrown my self in to full relaxation at Hostel Estoril, tested the bike fully loaded, seen the Casa Rosada (walked where Eva Peron walked), seen the "Bomba del Tiempo" drum show, few good nights with hostal friends and continued to supersize my belly with junk food (is not the wine).

- Hostel Estoril:"...probably the best hostel in the world.", my best friend Miriam wants to create a facebook group for the hostel with this slogan. It's true, more and more people have stopped at the hostel and postponed their departure to enjoy such environment. Sunbathing on the terrace has finally rewarded me with a decent suntan. 6, the number of asados consumed at the hostel which means that I ate 10 chorizos, 10 pieces of chicken, endless pieces of greasy beef, a bowl of potatos & egg salad, 1/2 tomato and a few leafs of lettuce. Definitly a low protein diet! It has been a hot week with 35c with high humidity during the day, 30c during the night still humid till 2am. Thanks to the heat I switched from chilled white wine to the delicious and refreshing local beer "Quilmes", 10 pesos (2.2 euros) for 1L bottle at the terrace bar.

- The Bike: Well, I cycled a few more times in heavy traffic and didn´t enjoy it at all. The number of buses are unreal, they occupy the whole slow lane and the air is unbreathable. So I waited for the weekend to test the bike. On Saturday it was really hot and humid. I waited till 6pm before riding, I was soaked in sweat by only loading up the bike. I went around the block between Avenida de Mayo and the Obelisco. On the straight all fine,the bike is heavy but you can pedal ok (till the road is flat), turning is a complete differnt story. On my first 90 degree turn, right in front the Obelisco, I leaned on the side to turn, as you usually do with a bike, and loss grip on the front wheel . Nearly fell on the road, I managed to put down my foot in time and hold the bike.Turning with a fully loaded bike is like turning with a tractor.

- Junk Food: Been in Bs As for 3 weeks and got f****** empanadas coming out of my ears, chorizos out of my arse, pizza slices out of my nose, steak I can't eat any more and I was nearly sick on a Burger King triple Whopper, which weighs 600g, washed down with fries and 1/2 Litre of Pepsi has a calory intake of around 1600 cal. It takes 3 hours of cycling (50 Km) to burn all that energy, or it turns into fat. After eating such a beast, you feel it clogs up your arteries, breathing becomes difficult and you start having cold sweat on your front head. Never again!!! Has anyone seen "Supersize Me"??? I fell like the dude after 3 weeks of McDonalds. However, I did managed to have a decent meal with Miriam & friends. Miriam knows this italian restaurant called "Broccolino", which serves one of the best fillet steaks in the city. A 800g monster of the size of an arm with mushroom & leek sauce, medium rare is to die for!!! Thanks Miriam, that was a treat.

- Nights Out: Excellent night out to see the "Bomba del Tiempo", live drum show where you drink beer by a 1L plastic cup. 1/2 the hostel was there and we all swallowed plenty of beer, while the rest of the crowd were smoking away. It smelled like a whole bush of marijuana was on fire! Lots and lots of photos, a group picture every 2 minutes. The last night out was after "Broccolino". Me, Miriam, Kathy and Mark were supposed to go salsa dancing, but the club was closed, so we ended in a near by bar drinking Vodka & Speed (local Red Bull). After the magic drink we were ready for clubbing in "Kika", dancing hip hop for a while, but at 2am a door to anotherdancing floor opened, where electronic music satisfied our dancing needs, with a dj that looked 15, skinny to the bone due to cocaine consumption. At 4am we were eating fries at our local, laughing to the old joke (with new developments) of sheep & gorges. Ahahahah,so f****** funny at 4am!!!

Wednesday 1st of April was my last day at Hostel Estoril. A quiet day, last asado and feeling sad for leaving the place. It was especially sad to say good bye to my best friend Miriam, rarely you click in such a way with a person. We had fun and laughed till crying. She has also been so sweet to give me a lucky charm, a 500 italian lira carved coin. I love it and I was so touched by the gesture. Miriam you're the best, I miss you so much!!! Especially waking you up by jumping of the bunk bed.

My acknowledgements and thanks go to the following special people: Kathy "lovely ladie from the US", Leslie "Crazy American Runner", Chayenne "US students in Bs As", Fiona "Kiwi student in Bs As", Anthony "The geezer that speaks like Austin Power", Luise "red wine UK lady", Ruth "whitw wine UK lady", Luisa "UK, hope your finger is ok", Lukas "Swiss/Italian", Rachel "brazilian with a british accent".

A special thanks go tothe Hostel staff: Roy "el jefe de Avda de Mayo" take care of my trolley, Nacho "el hombre de la noche", Esteban "Loco por Radio Head", Wendy "gracias por darme el nombre LOCURA" e Demien "el toca chitara".

Jimbo has left Argentina for Uruguay.

I think that is enought for this week.


Geezers lemon squeezers take it easyyyyyyyyyy!!!


jimbo

Growing Roots in Hostel Estoril

Dear Friends,

week 2 in BA has been a mix of shopping for the bike, sunbathing, socializing with hostel mates (with wine), little siteseeing and a bit of cycling around BA.

- Shopping for the bike: Finally got the bike with the travel bags. Amazingly, my stuff (25kg plus 5kg of backpack) does fit in the 4 bike travel bags and I got some spare space. I'm still waiting for my bike Sigma Computer which arrives friday. The camping gear that I want is hard to find due to the low season approaching. What I need is a simple stove that burns on petrol, camping head light, cooking equipment for 1 and the simpliest item which is becoming a nightmare to find are simple elastic cords with hooks to tie up backpack and tent to the rear bike bags.

- Sunbathing: 2 weeks of glorious sunshine and I'm still white as a ghost. While biking and shopping around I'm exposed to sunshine, plus I sunbathe on the hostel terrace for a hour every 2 days, taking a day of rest from the sun as I do burn a bit. Anyway, I'm starting to change color so I'll not look like a white sheet on a black bike.

- Cycling: My new black Vairo (local brand) is working well and as most of you know I did call her "All Black" for colour and nationality reasons. Traffic in BA is a life threatening experience, it's full of buses that go at high speed, breaking and accellerating as if they were in a f***** F1 race. They turn fast with no indicator and if they have an indicator on they will turn the other way, as the indicator is on by mistake. Being hit by a bus is not the only risk. Buses choke the city with their black exhaust fumes and cycling behind a bus for 2 hours is like smoking 1000 fags. During the weekend there is little traffic and it's enjoyable to cycle around the city. This weekend I'll test the bike fully loaded with the travel bags and camping gear and on Monday I'll be ready to go. By the way, I've decided to go via Uruguay and South of Brazil. Next week I'll cross the Rio de la Plata to Colonia in Uruguay. The first cycling stage will be Colonia towards Montevideo, 150km which I should cover in 2 days.

- Socializing in the hostel: It's part of the fun when living in a hostel. BA is a port for most travellers entering or leaving South America, so in hostels you have a high turnover of travellers each day. But not in the Hostel Estoril where travelers seem to stay longer than planned. It's a cool, clean and well managed hostel, where the staff remember your name and have a real interest you. As said, travellers stay longer than planned, they're solo travellers travelling South America or the world, be it for 2 weeks, a month, 6 months or years. When travelling solo socializing becomes easy, natural and it's fun. That is why at the Hostel Estoril a big group of solo travellers have become friends, enjoying the asados, siteseeing and the bars and clubs of the city, like the great night out to the Club 69, partying till 8am. In 2 weeks I had the privilege to share travelling experience, fun and friendship with the following:

- Miriam Perritt (UK)"The Geezer Lemon Squeezer", my best friend in the hostel
- Chris Cox (Australia) "Mr lasagna from down under", always there for a drink.
- Mark Brown (York) "The Doctor from York", dorm mate plus cork tricks.
- Marina Rodriguez (Portugal) "Portugesa do Dublin", terrace mate.
- Jenn Farrell (IRL) "didn't kill me after snoring", dorm and party mate.
- Jenny Bernardskaya (UKR) "true passion for culture", dorm and terrace mate.
- Marcin Domaszckynski (POL) "The bartender", party mate.
- Kelly Inglis (CAN), party mate.
- Giulia Stammer (Swiss), party mate.
- Thais Martinho (BRA), party mate.
- Samir Saini (USA) "die hard party animal"
- Eamonn Martin (UK), party mate.
- Abdulazz Maraffi (Qatar), dorm mate that didn't kill me after snoring.

Thank you to all for the great time.

Easyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy Gueezers lemon squeezers.


jimbo

I'm Alive

Dear friends,

first of all sorry for not giving any news or replying to your messages. It has been a stressful week, getting used to the heat with 30C and high humidity, the backpacker's nightlife with the socializing activities which are mainly drinking and talking about travel adventures till the early hours of the morning. However, I do get up early in the morning to search for the bike, bags and camping gear. It took me all week to find a decent bike and decent bags. I got a list of 15 bike shops in central Buenos Aires from the yellow pages, and of course it was the last one on the list that had what I was looking for. But by doing so I had a good tour of Buenos Aires.

Guys, Argentina is dirty cheap! Is so cheap that I can't belive it at times. Just to give you some figures.
- eating out 25 pesos (5.50 euros),
- bottle of wine from the terrace bar at the hostel 18 pesos (4 euros),
- bus or metro single trip 1 peso (20 cents),
- 2 T-Bone steaks (1Kg) from the supermarket 20 pesos (4.40 euros), beef is so tender here that you can cut it with a spoon!!!
- Jimbo's new mountain bike 1.400 pesos (320 euro),
- 4 bike bags and frames 900 pesos (220 euro),
- super mega Sigma bike computer with speed, trip distance, heart rate, altimeter, temp and all possible averages 600 pesos (120 euro),
- camping tent 200 pesos (45 euros),
- pack of cigarettes 4 pesos (80 cents).

Tomorrow the bike will be ready!!! I'll spend the next few days testing the bike by loading the bags with my stuff and camping gear which weighs all together 30 kg. Monday I will leave Buenos Aires, where??? Still undecided between heading west to Mendoza and up to Salta, or take a ferry to Montevideo and head north following the coast of Uruguay and enter Brazil up to Florianopolis. So, mountains or ocean???

In the mean time I'm having fun with my hostal mates, visiting Buenos Aires, nights at the bar on the terrace of the hostal and asados argentinos in the weekend. We even went to see a typical argentinian football match between Boca Juniors (Maradona's old club) and Argentinos Juniors. One Boca supporter was shot at before the game by another Boca fan for political ultra' reasons. At the end of the match the Argentinos Juniors, who were staying above us, gave us respect with a golden shower, luckily we were just under the stand to avoid the shower. It couldn't get more typical than that!

Unfortunately I can't load the photos from the hostal, as soon as I get to an internet point I'll do so.

Take it easyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy!!!